The value of South Sea pearls is assessed according to five key characteristics.
These are size, shape, complexion, lustre and colour. In addition to the five virtues, nacre structure is also a consideration when assessing pearls.

Like fluorescence in diamonds, nacre structure does not necessarily have a significant impact on a pearl’s beauty or value so it is not treated as one of the five key virtues.

Every pearl is graded according to these factors, yet when selecting pearls, it must also be remembered that beauty is ultimately in the eye of the beholder.

SIZE

The rarity of pearls increases exponentially with their size. The size of pearls is not relevant to their quality but is an important factor when assessing their value.

SHAPE

Due to the thickness of their nacre, South Sea pearls are found in an infinite variety of shapes.

As with size, a pearl’s shape is not an indicator of its quality. However, market demand for particular shapes does have a bearing on value.

It is important to remember that shape is a subjective preference and pearls of any shape can be exceptional in quality and beauty.

COMPLEXION

A pearl with a flawless surface is exceptionally rare. Pearl quality is influenced by the number and size of imperfections and their degree of visibility.

Severe imperfections will significantly compromise a pearl’s beauty and value.

LUSTRE

Lustre refers to the behaviour of light interacting with the countless layers of pearl nacre.

Nacre is the pearlescent organic material produced by the oyster that forms the body of the pearl. Fine quality pearl nacre results when an oyster lays pearl nacre tiles in perfect symmetry allowing light to refract uninterrupted through the layers of the pearl.

This gives the appearance of a soft iridescent glow from deep within.Natural lustre is everlasting and should not be confused with the superficial shine of treated pearls that may diminish over time.

Pearls of exceptionally high quality exhibit a phenomenon known as orient; a combination of translucence overlaid with a subtle play of colour on the pearl’s surface.

COLOUR

The wide array of natural colours of Australian South Sea pearls typically mirror the overtones of the pearl shell from which they came.

The popularity of a particular hue influences a pearl’s value but colour, like shape, is a personal choice and is not a factor in assessing a pearl’s quality.
Australian South Sea pearls are typically white, silver, cream or gold. Pearls displaying pink overtones are particularly prized.

NACRE

As a pearl grows and nacre is deposited, the size and configuration of the microscopic nacre platelets cause an apparent ‘movement’ when viewing the pearl from different angles.

This movement is a natural characteristic that is often seen in South Sea pearls and natural pearls.

As with fluorescence in diamonds, nacre structure should not necessarily be regarded as a quality differentiator.
Movement can detract from the beauty of some pearls but can be an appealing characteristic of others.

For example, although movement is not desirable in a round necklace, it can be a pleasing feature of baroque and keshi pearls.